Mejdi Schalck on the podium at the World Cup in Meiringen! planetgrimpe

© Vladek Zumr

Mejdi Schalck did it! He then won the bronze medal in Meiringen tonight after coming close to victory. In his first participation in a world bouldering final, Paul Jenft, the second Frenchman entered, finished at the foot of the podium.

An exciting finale!

Never before has a final had so many twists and turns! The provisional classification has not ceased to be altered throughout the competition. Back in detail on this exciting finale!

Block 1

“Rebound”. The first block set the tone for these finals. In fact, the first route required climbers to bounce from grip to grip laterally, all the way to a large container. A triple idiot who will not be a problem for Tomoa Narasaki Y Yoshikuyi Ogatarecognized for their aerial qualities, which link this rock to the eye.

also goes for Paul Jenft, the first finalist to come out, who opened the ball rolling by making the block in 4 attempts. no problem either Mejdi Schalckthat he even has the luxury of derailing this coordination by opting for a static method on his second try.

Finally, all the competitors will validate this block, except the American one. Colin Duffythat will not be able to contain the final volume in compression.

Block 2

The finals took an important turn in this second block. Initially, the starters had imagined a fissure, in which you literally had to throw your fist, to get it stuck inside. Paul Jenft, the first climber to face the block, tries this first move many times. On his last try, he almost manages to get his fist stuck inside the volume suit, but doesn’t quite make it.

Colin Duffy then find a derivation to this first movement. Instead of trying to get his fist into the crack, he throws it right into compression on the next take, and it works! Unfortunately, he falls at the end of the block and fails to stabilize at the last hold.

After a few tries with the original method, Mejdi Schalck in turn finds the derivation with the next touch. But like the American, he falls to the last dam. Fortunately, he still has a few seconds left on the clock, allowing him one last try. More motivated than ever, this time he managed to control the last hold, thus validating the block.

Our Frenchman then took quite an advantage in the classification, because neither Tomoa Narasakinot Kokoro Fujii fails to chain the block. Thus, this meant that at the end of this second block, Mejdi had a block advantage over all other finishers!

Block 3

But in block 3, new twists! The editors had decided this time to put the climbers’ meninges to the test. The setup to validate the initial four tapes was particularly difficult. It was necessary to perform a run&jump on the first volume, then descend slowly to correctly validate the initial position, then perform a launch to move on to the next take. On his last try, Paul Jenft find the solution! The pressure is at its peak in the French clan, because the seconds pass. The 18-year-old climber managed to crown the rock in the last ten seconds.

Behind, the competitors are breaking their teeth one by one in this start. Despite his 89th World Cup start, Kokoro Fujii remains on the canvas, spending long minutes figuring out this block. it’s the same for Tomoa Narasakieither Mejdi Schalckwhich includes the movement of starting too late.

crazy story for Colin Duffy ! During his visit, the American decided to opt for a more radical approach. Instead of delicately confirming the starting position, he performs a run and jump, quickly touching all four ribbons with his four limbs and running straight to the next hold. A method that works and takes you straight to the top. But after a complaint, he was asked to start the block again. In fact, according to the judges, he would not have sufficiently validated the starting position during his race and jump. The young American, who participated this summer in the Olympic Games, therefore leaves with a knife between his teeth. He performs the same method, but again, the judges do not validate him. Enraged, Duffy makes no secret of his anger and launches into a new test. This time, despite his running and jumping, we see that he quickly stabilizes all four of his limbs on the exit holds. This time he will be the good one and will be awarded this third cap!

Block 4

At this point in the competition, the provisional classification was incredible: the two French Mejdi Schalck Y Paul Jenft proudly enthroned themselves in first and second position, each one block ahead of the rest of the finishers!

But in this final block of the competition, they will not be able to materialize their efforts. Again, this route abused the shoulders of climbers. You had to hang at arm’s length on the first take and generate a pendulum motion, to dynamically move to the next take, while compressing the initial volume with the palm of your other hand. Paul Jenft he will manage to make the first moves, but will fall into the final hold. The same applies to Mejdi Schalckthat despite many attempts to try to hold the last dam, he will not succeed.

On the other hand, the two Japanese Tomoa Narasaki Y Yoshiyuki Ogata make the force speak and chain this last block in two and four tries respectively. To illustrate the incredible setting of these finals, if Kokoro Fujii, the last finalist out, topped this block, thus winning the competition. Unfortunately, he will not be successful and will be ranked last in the finals.

The first 4, made up of the two Japanese and the two French, had the same score: 2 linked blocks and 3 validated zones. It is therefore the number of tests that everything is played. With just three tries, it’s Tomoa Narasaki who won this first World Cup of the season, ahead of his compatriot Yoshiyuki Ogatayou have 5 attempts. Mejdi Schalck he wins a magnificent bronze medal thanks to his seven attempts. At the end, Paul Jenftwho does not consider himself a specialist in bouldering, finished in a sumptuous 4th place, in his first final in this discipline.

The complete results of the men’s final:

read also

Meiringen World Cup: Mejdi Schalck and Paul Jenft in the final!

Leave a Comment